Seven hats ready to head to West Kingdom largess, with hand lettered labels.
I seem to have stumbled on a largesse item that is quick for me to do, very portable (as my mundane job involves a lot of traveling), and people appear to like them.
My main focus is Norse. I would like to point out that so far there is no evidence of Norse cultures using nalbinding for hats. It is however a plausible possibility as they had nalbinding, spinning, wool, and a cold climate. Also daily use items, such as hats and gloves, are usually worn until they were worn out.
As for traveling I wouldn't recommend trying to nalbind on a plane. The very cramped spaces and large arm movements don't work well together. But waiting to board the plane, relaxing after work, and of course sitting at my favorite coffee shop have all turned into great places to get anywhere from a few more stitches, to most of a hat done in a sitting.
Several years ago I had wanted to learn to nalbind, but didn't know that anyone in my Principality practised it. Off to the internet. Hands down, the all time best site I found was http://www.en.neulakintaat.fi/1. This lady's page is amazing! She has history, written tutorials, videos. I simply cannot recommend her site enough.
But enough preamble, you want to know how I make a hat.
Needed supplies: Wool yarn (I like Lamb's Pride Worsted because it is easy to get in my area, and the blend of wool and mohair is more like "primitive" sheeps' fleece, which is what would have been available to people prior to the selective breeding that created modern breeds of sheep), wood or bone needle (though a blunt tapestry needle will work too), and a stitch marker with clip on capabilities.
At least for me it is easier to start from the top down for a hat. Nalbinding has a lot of elasticity along the length of the "caterpillar", so I have found that you will lose a lot of needed width if you join at the bottom and work up.
Keep in mind that your gage is based on the size of your thumb. Mine is .8 inches across. A bigger thumb will create bigger stitches, and conversely a smaller one will create smaller stitches.
If you already know how to do Mammen stitch (I have not tried the recipe yet with other stitches, but it would be worth attempting), then here is the recipe:
Make a starting loop.
Round one: Cast on 11 half sized loops (snugged down off your thumb, to about half the size of your thumb), plus 1 thumb sized loop. Total of 12 stitches. Place stitch marker in first stitch.
Round two: Make two stitches in every previous round's stitches. (I will denote this as (M2) in later instructions, as in make two in one) Move stitch marker to very first stitch of second round when you make it.
Round three: Stitch one, stitch two in one, (S1 (M2)), repeat until end of round. Move marker to first stitch of third round when you make it.
Round four: S2 (M2), repeat until end. Move the marker of course.
R5: S3 (M2) repeat. Marker?
Continue in this way, adding one more "plain" stitch every repeat, per round.
Last increase round for my largesse hats (though for my personal hats it needs to be bigger, other people need smaller if you are customizing): S7 (M2), repeat.
Now make plain stitches around, and around, and around. Until the length from point to edge is 7 inches. Change colors and make two final rounds. Weave in both ends.
And there you have a hat. Or a nest for Stitch.
So onto the walk through....
Starting slip knot before I snugged it up. You want a big loop, but the ability to pull the loop tight by the tail.
Starting loop, making the first cast on stitch.
Unconventional view. Eleven half sized cast on stitches. Number 12 is thumb sized so that you can join the ends together. Note the stitch marker at stitch number one.
Starting loop pulled down, but not tightened yet. Probably about thumb sized still. Don't tighten it until round two, or later, is done.
Sometimes the cast on loops for round one like to hide while making round two. Make sure to get them all.
Increases done, plain rounds done. Just have to get to the stitch marker, to then change colors for two final rounds.
A word on splicing new sections of yarn on. Un-twist the wool, hold your hands several inches apart, and gently pull.
Here's my color change. Note how the ends of the yarn are nice and fluffy.
Lick your palm (or mist a little water from a spray bottle, if you don't want to be quite so traditional), then lay the two strands in your hand with a fair overlap.
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